Make Your Own Soft Plastic Lures

Make Your Own Soft Plastic Lures – The top bait is undrilled, the next two are rigged on a JoeBaggs Tackle SPJ, the purple and purple/gold by Gravity Tackle rigged on a monster hook by the master with a swimbait head at home, the bottom is mounted on a Hogy Swimbait. head.

From making molds to mixing unique colors, making simple plastics is a great way to spend the winter months.

Make Your Own Soft Plastic Lures

Make Your Own Soft Plastic Lures

I started making my own soft plastics for use in surfboards, kayaks and canoes a few years ago. I was able to get what I was looking for from the soft plastic. There are many good soft plastics on the market, but you can connect to your hunting on a deeper level. For me, it takes a lot of pride to catch a big fish on something I’ve done. In my quest to cast my own plastics, I thank my friend, Gabe Ravizza of Gravity Tackle (maker of the 13.5-inch GT Eel) for helping me along the way.

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To start making your own plastic, you’ll need some tools and some safety equipment. Apart from the plastisol, dye, glitter, fragrance, worm oil and mold, you will need the following equipment: a microwave to heat the plastisol liquid, a measuring cup to heat the plastisol (do not use plastic or it will break) , metal mixing spoon (do not use wood, moisture will cause bubbles) Leather gloves, respirator, safety rings, and a good work area. You want to make sure that a microwave is dedicated to making plastic; Do not use the microwave again to cook food.

Let the first color cool for 30 seconds to a minute, then pour the top color on top. This delay prevents the colors from blending together but allows them to blend together.

It is also important to cover your ends when casting. Even in the summer I wear a long sleeve shirt when it’s made of plastic. I poured hot Plastisol all over myself while wearing sweats and it was not fun. I can’t imagine the pain it caused when it spilled directly onto my skin. Stuff like napalm is sticky, so expect burns if it comes in contact with any exposed skin. On rare occasions, he can “puke” in the sauce cup. This only happened to me once when I was mixing different types of recycled plastic. Always do this in a well-ventilated area such as outdoors or in an open garage. If you want to pour in the winter, you need to warm the nests and mix the cups before pouring. If you pour hot plastic into a cold mold it will crack (especially when using gypsum.) The easiest way I have found to do this is to store it in the house beforehand. in use. Wear a respirator and safety goggles to prevent the plastic air from getting into your eyes, nose, and mouth.

Once the plastisol has cooled enough to set, the bait is removed from the mold. Be careful not to remove it too soon, as it may break or tear.

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When it comes to choosing liquid Plastisol, there are many options available. I started by buying a gallon of Plastisol from MF Plastic based on what Mark was using. Since then, I have tried many different types of plastisol and my favorite is Bait Plastic’s #212 Medium. Plastisol is usually available in soft, medium, and hard (even saltwater from some brands.) You can also buy mixes like soft/ medium or medium/mature. The softer the plastic, the greater the effect, but the faster the hook breaks. I like medium plastic because it works well and has a good level of durability. Experiment with different Plastisols and use what works for you or gives the desired results. Many are available in quart-sized containers so it’s a good idea to experiment before settling on a specific brand. I have noticed slight differences in properties between major brands of Plastisol. My overall experience with the Plastic Bait product has been great.

Once removed from the mold, place the baits straight and flat side down and trim off the excess or on the casting. After the bait set has been set for a few days, it can be spiked or coated with the scent of your choice or fished.

Many different materials are used for openwork. Concrete, resin, silicone, and aluminum are the four most popular materials. There are many types of molds for fresh and saltwater plastics available in silicone and aluminum. An internet search can turn up many types of construction available for sale but I wanted something different and I did it by pouring the bait I wanted to do. He casts the molds in plaster of paris and fiber resin. Stucco is easy to make but takes longer to produce because you have to seal it. The glue is more difficult to use but once cured the mold is ready to go.

Make Your Own Soft Plastic Lures

The casting method is very clear. Heat a cup of plastisol in the microwave until it turns from liquid to molten plastic. I do this in 1.5-2 minutes, stirring in between. Once the plastic reaches the right temperature, add the desired color and any glitter to the mixture and stir well. Then put the shake cup back in the microwave for another 30 seconds, before giving it a final stir and pouring it into the mold. The optimum temperature varies by Plastisol manufacturer but is between 300-400 degrees. Plastisol will turn yellow if heated beyond the optimum range, so keep a thermometer handy to ensure the plastic is properly heated.

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Some of the basic materials needed to make your own soft plastics are: Plastisol, wax, fragrance, and color. Can add shine and scent to this very reliable bait, and the infrared thermometer works quickly to determine the correct plastic temperature.

Making plastic without making it a big problem is an art form. Before pouring each batch, I brush a layer of worm oil into the mold holes. This helps to release the attachments when they are saved. When pouring, I start at the head and move towards the tail. If you are pouring two colors into the same mold, pour the bottom color first and wait 30 seconds to a minute before pouring the top color. This will prevent the two layers from merging. Timing is everything when it comes to the last bit of shrimp, especially with a small tail that gets to the point like an eel. The more times you pour, the less cutting you’ll hear later.

While the molds were cooling, I started preparing the next batch of plastic. Usually when I’m ready to cast again the first bait set is ready to pull from the jig. I let them sit upright for a day or two before taking them out to grab them to keep their shape. Once the bait is in place, I dip it in scented worm oil to further attract the fish. Shad is my go-to scent, even in eel bait, because it produces the best results out of the many scents I’ve tried. You can also add salt or other additives to your mixture to increase the weight and adjust the strength. Spraying is a great way to pass the time when the house temperature hits, take care and wear the right safety equipment.

For DIY pours, plaster of Paris (POP) is a great place to start making your own because it’s cheap and easy to pour. Damage to the grout must be thoroughly sealed and dried before sealing. Many casting makers use Modge Podge to coat their POP molds, but I find I have to wait a long time between pours to cool or the glue will rise from the mold. . I ended up using high temperature epoxy to seal my explosion molds. It takes more work at first with the queen, but in the end you get a smooth product that can be used more than a mold.

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Creating your own template is very easy. Just make a cone tray with a plastic container, a baking tray, and a cardboard box lined with aluminum foil. I have found the best way to cast the mold is to make a box out of foam board using hot glue to hold it together and lining it with aluminum foil to help release the mold. after treatment. This way I can have enough for things I don’t need

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